Editorials

My criteria have changed dramatically over the last 15yrs or so. In the early 90’s it was all about hi-tech, lightweight, synthetic, low impact, leave-no-trace kind of stuff. Ostrome, North Face, Gore-Tex, Gerber, Thermarest, Outdoor Research, Peak…. All name brand kit… and a lot of it. I carried my own fire starting tinder, was never without my loaded “survival tin” and rarely spent a cold night in the woods.

Nowadays, I wear natural fibres… my tools are made of leather, wood and steel. You would be hard-pressed to find a crucial piece of kit that I didn’t make (or couldn’t make) myself. I don’t carry the million item “altoids tin”. I will still use low impact, conveniences like stoves, lighters and flashlights when I can… but do not rely on them. I like the fact that I am not disconnected from my environment anymore... to me it’s like being married to the perfect woman. (Which I am) It’s a relationship in which you both need each other... I feel vulnerable and invincible at the same time.

My new theory is this…

“If I can’t make it, I don’t take it.”

This holds true for 90% of my personal kit. (I still can’t weave my own blankets… he he) With that said, I don’t necessarily MAKE EVERYTHING… sometimes its easier to buy… but intimate knowledge of each piece of gear is paramount to me, now.

Rick

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Wool Blanket Cold Weather Anorak
After several prototypes... over-engineering, under-engineering, bad sewing, improper sizing...... I nailed it! My wool blanket anorak is near perfect. A few buttons here and there and it will be done. This was made to serve as my "Walking Shelter" for extended bush wandering when I would constantly be on the move with no permanent camp.

Here is the evolution......

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• First prototype "bush shirt"
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• Second prototype (sorry, no actual photos)... over-engineered... too many bells and whistles. The pockets were impractical because I took it off several times a day and had to empty the pockets every time. Plus I found that having two layers sewn together was way too warm while moving around....
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• Third prototype... plain Jane..... It worked well, but the head hole was too small and it needed slits up the sides to access belt items more easily. It also lacked a hood of its own. The two separate layers worked great... I used only 1 during activity and doubled up to sleep or sit in....
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• Current model... I used the last prototype with new modifications (integral hood, reinforcing webbing around collar and 9" side slits). The anorak is still a 2 in 1 design. In extreme cold there is a second, identical anorak (without a hood), sewn 1 inch smaller, that goes under the first...
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Firepouches
Fire starting is one of the most basic skills in bushcraft and wilderness survival. It can also be one of the most challenging. Variables such as weather, terrain, material availability and even mental state can all affect one’s ability to consistently produce a flame when you need it the most. Lighters are the easiest way to get fire “now” but what happens when they run out of fuel? Matches are also convenient but the boxes never seem to hold enough and they are susceptible to moisture. The ferrocerium rod or “firesteel” is a wonderful invention but wears down rapidly with multiple uses. What do you turn to when there is nothing left? Primitive friction based fire starting is a skill everybody should take the time to learn because it is the most inexhaustible when it comes to resources, however, when you’re cold and wet it can be a daunting task, indeed. By far, the most reliable, weatherproof and renewable method of fire starting is “Flint and Steel”.

 Flint and steel effectively “bridges the gap” between primitive and modern techniques. It combines a waterproof sparking tool with natural or processed tinder. When carried in a sturdy weatherproof kit or “Firepouch” it can be a welcomed companion when venturing into the wild.

 Most people who spend any length of time in the woods have some sort of fire making device. By no means does a flint and steel kit replace the convenience of having a lighter in your pocket, but it can prove invaluable when the unexpected happens and you suddenly find yourself in a survival situation, cold, wet, and in need of fire NOW!

A Firepouch is a basically a collection of tools and materials that assist you in getting a fire started. Assemble your kit with care using items that have worked for you in the past and that you are familiar with. You should never be in a position where you are using your kit “for the first time” during a high stress situation. What you use to carry your kit is just as important as the items contained within and should be comfortable enough to have on you at all times. Size is important. You will be less likely to lug around a bulky kit, while at the same time, you don’t want it to be a “one shot” deal. Having a fire kit tucked into your pack is a good idea but if that is the case, you should always have a back up fire lighting means on your person. As mentioned earlier, an excellent product for this scenario is a Ferrocerium rod or “firesteel”. A “ferro rod” as it is often called is a stick made up of a combination of metal alloys that when scraped produces a shower of very hot sparks. It throws a hotter spark than that of flint and steel but will wear out eventually. One of these added to your kit could get you past a difficult time should your canoe tip over. So, whether you buy one , make one, and wear it on your belt, in your pack, around your neck (or better still, all three) a Firepouch is a “hot ticket” item.

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