Pricing is strongly dependent upon the complexity, size and materials of a given project. You can follow these guidelines to get a general figure for the cost of a custom piece.

Knives: approximately $40 dollars per inch, measured from the overall length of the knife.

Steel Strikers, and Smaller Forged Items: approximately $25 per inch, measured from the overall length of the piece.

I am no longer taking "Orders" per se... but if you are genuinely interested in having a piece made or have a specific model in mind, you can get put on a request list by filling out the contact form and sending me an email. I am slowly phasing out orders and lists as my classes and experiences take up a large part of my business now and I don't feel right making folks wait months/years for a piece.

Payments from North American customers are accepted online through eTransfer, PayPal, or by cheque/money order through the mail. All U.S. cheques must be payable outside the U.S.( Canada). Payment must clear my bank (or the PayPal site) before any items are shipped.

Unfortunately, I am no longer holding stock on this site. We have disabled the purchase buttons. We are trying to figure this out and appreciate your patience.  

Foreign customers are responsible to know any customs regulations and restrictions that may apply, and for any complications and/or expenses that may arise as a result of the governing laws pertaining to their orders.

Unfortunately, I am no longer holding stock on this site. We have disabled the purchase buttons. We are trying to figure this out and appreciate your patience.

If you would like information about a specific product, please visit the product's detail page and ask your question under the Product Inquiries tab. This let's me know exactly which item you're interested in. Here's how you do it.

Step 1: Visit the Gallery and select the product.

Step 2: Scroll down until you see the product's description.

Step 3: Click the "Product Inquiries" tab and fill out the form.

I will be in touch with you shortly.

Wildertools products are built for the long haul. Carbon steel, leather and natural materials require some care but that TLC allows you to become more aware of your tools and conscious of your actions. Here's how you do it:

Steel: If not properly maintained, carbon steel is prone to rust. The solution is oil. My favourite is mineral oil as it protects the blade and is food safe. Tip: Try keeping a mineral oil saturated cloth in a ziploc bag.(It's also great for the skin.) You can purchase mineral oil at your local pharmacy. In a pinch use any oil to treat the blade from machine oil to canola. Clean your blade after each use and dry it completely. Environment and frequency of use will dictate how often you oil the blade. If you are noticing any rust, you must oil more frequently. If you intend to store your blade for any length of time be sure to give it a liberal coating of oil. That said, over time your carbon steel blade will naturally darken and form a patina which is a controlled oxidation that prevents rust. Each patina is different and adds to the uniqueness of your blade. Tip: Kitchen Knives - Carbon steel kitchen and food prep knives need to form a patina. During this process, you may notice dark marks on your potatoes/apples. This is only short term, until the patina fully forms. Wipe your blade clean with a cloth. Do not scour your blade, let the patina form. You can force a patina on your blade by coating it with a thin layer of mustard and letting it sit for an hour then gently washing and wiping the blade clean with a cloth. Personally I never oil my kitchen knives as they do not sit in a sheath and are constantly in use.

The edge:There are many ways to sharpen a knife. Use whatever method you are comfortable with.The final bevel of your Wildertools knife was set and honed by hand to convex micro bevel. I feel this edge allows the knife to stay sharp longer and I hope to have a video to share soon on how it's done. Tip:Remember a sharp knife is a safe knife.

Leather: Your Wildertools leather was most likely treated with beeswax. You may find a "haze" forming on the surface. Don't panic, it is natural for some of the wax to migrate out from the expansion and contraction due to environmental changes. In areas of extreme heat, the leather may look as if it is sweating. Tip: Simply, buff with a cloth or if needed use a hairdryer to heat up the wax and buff. Note: Sheaths are treated inside and out. You may find bits of wax stuck to your blade. "Those are free. You're welcome!"

Wrapped Handles: Your wrapped handle has been treated with marine grade epoxy and is impervious to the elements. After curing, I lightly sand the surface to raise the fiber. This gives the handle additional grip when it is wet. The drawback is that the handle may appear to look dried out at some points, especially after washing. Normally, the natural oils from your hand will take care of it but if you feel it is too unsightly rubbing in a dab of mineral oil or linseed oil will keep it looking new.

Wood Handles: Stabilized wood goes through a process where the wood is impregnated with chemicals under high pressure...I don't use that shit. Your wooden handle is all natural. It has been sealed with linseed/tung oil. With use the oil my need to be reapplied. Just do it. Again, vegetable oil will suffice.

I will be in touch with you shortly.